CHANTILLY 2006 Letter: We had decided to stop in at least three more places in France. The town of Chantilly is famous for its chateau and its incredible horse stables (of which more later), and is within ten miles of the town of Senlis whose cathedral and ancient buildings are also justly renowned. Last stop would be the city of Reims with its enormous cathedral.
So, off we went. We readily found signs indicating non-toll roads to Chantilly, and started driving. It seemed to us that we were being routed around Robin Hood’s barn but we were committed and continued. As it turned out, that was the most direct way to Chantilly. We entered the city on N16 from the south, drove a little way, and saw the signs for the Chateau and stables. We followed the signs and found ourselves on a cobblestone road around two of the most fabulous buildings we’ve seen. But the parking spaces seemed to be all taken, and we found ourselves out of the complex onto a city street with absolutely no idea of where we were or how to get to the campground. After taking a short scenic tour, Ron sensibly figured out in which direction we should head, and within a couple of blocks the name of the town we wanted to find appeared. It was quite a name: St. Leu d’Esserent.
As we drove across the bridge as directed, we saw what looked like an Abbey with gothic circular towers. That was a good sign! We followed the instructions for the campground, past houses, through fields, and up a steep hill – and eventually our patience was rewarded with a reception building. It took a while for us to find a space since the campground is on the grounds of a former quarry and it is up and down hills and into forest. It was brutally hot. Adelle was moaning that she would have liked to be back in her air-conditioned house, when Ron, who had just returned to the motor home, said that we had to move our chairs. Why? He wouldn’t say. But he did guarantee all would be well. So we moved across the path and down the road – right next to an actual quarry site from which emanated really cool air. Natural air-conditioning.
Next morning we went into the village and looked at its 13th century church, but didn’t bother to go in. Then we drove back in Chantilly and turned into one of the parking areas. It listed prices: one euro for a car, two euros fifty for a van. We figured ourselves for a van, but when the lady appeared, she pointed out the bottom price category: ten euros ($12.50) for one hour for a camping-car. Of course we left without going into the building, but Ron managed to get some photos of a really fabulous chateau. As for the stables! The man who built those stables gives new meaning to the phrase "eccentric rich country gentleman". He decided that after he died he was going to come back to life as a horse. And being used to luxury, he therefore wanted to build the most enormous, beautiful and elaborate stables in the world for his future comfort! He certainly succeeded in doing that, but we don’t know for sure if he ever lived there as a horse. We did not go in so we did not have the chance to interrogate the horses living there about their ancestors.
