2003 Letter from Blackpool: From Glasgow we headed for Blackpool, England’s combination of Coney Island and Las Vegas, the largest, tackiest amusement park—not a theme park, an amusement park- in Europe. It is on the Irish Sea below Morecombe Bay. Like Las Vegas, Blackpool has a strip, a three-mile street from south to north bordered by a tramway, westward of which is the boardwalk, the beach and the sea. Located near the center of the strip is the Tower. This construction of Victorian ironwork is over 500 feet high and contains a ballroom, which has a mighty Wurlitzer organ and possibly an auditorium (we didn’t go inside) where a circus can be seen. Admission is included in the price of admission to the tower. There are three amusement-laden piers jutting out into the ocean along the strip, one at the south end, one in the center and one at the north end. Ron walked out on the center one which has a very large ferris wheel, some large pubs, food stalls, children’s amusement rides, and ironwork benches filled with mostly elderly folks sitting and surveying the all the hubbub. From the end you can see all the way up and down the strip. The south end of the strip has a huge roller coaster. The south pier has swings that take several people and swings them over the water in a huge arc, and bungy cars, which get dropped from great heights and bounce way down and then way up. The north pier is so long that a tram takes you out to the end.

In between these piers, and on the side of the streets opposite the beach are yet other large amusement parks, a sea world kind of place with horror houses, small hotels and B and B’s, and eateries, most of which sell fish and chips. We took a tour bus and learned that there were 2500 hotels with 9,100 beds along the strip or on the street that parallel it. These were small three and four room residential hotels for the most part. On the days we were there, all these were occupied because it was Bank Holiday, which is the equivalent of our Labor Day weekend. The crowds were tremendous.

One of the amusements for children is to take a donkey ride on the beach, which at low tide is about 600 yards wide. A major amusement for all ages is simply to sit on a bench overlooking the beach and the water, either on the western side of the tramway or on one of the piers. There were virtually no people in the water. We were told by a person who goes there often that the reason that no one goes into the water is because it is filthy. It looked okay!

The homes in the residential section are quite nice. There were many duplexes made of brick with slate roofs and gables and equipped with a type of window that I now associate with Britain in the 20’s and 30’s. These are about 18 inches wide and perhaps four feet tall with two panes, one occupying about two thirds of the height and remaining one-third pane on top. This opens as an awning window and often has a stained glass pattern the set in a clear glass surround. Very often this pattern is art deco. We have seen these panels for sale in US antique stores, and indeed we have bought some.

We are inexplicably fond of tacky beach places, so we quite enjoyed our stay. We had a wizard day. (Did you catch the Britishisms? If so, brilliant!)

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