2006 Letter from Wells: On Saturday, our host drove us into the lovely city of Wells. It is the smallest city in England and is designated a city only because it has a cathedral. We visited the Cathedral (of course) and also a row of 14th century houses called the Vicar’s Close. These were built to house the choir of the Cathedral and have been occupied ever since.

We walked through the town and were absolutely astonished at how many people were on the street. But we soon realized that it was not only a Saturday in a rural area where many people spend their Saturday on The High Street in the nearest town – but a day where young families could come to a carnival, a book sale, a street market and probably more.

Wells Cathedral is a 13th century building that has an unusual "scissor arch" which is often mistaken for a modern addition. In reality, it is a 14th century solution to the sinking foundations of the tower. On one side of the nave is an old and very unusual clock. It shows the month, the day, the hour and the minute on the four faces of the clock, with the month face being the largest. At the hour, jousting knights ride round and round and a seated man rings the bell with his hammer. There are sculptured figures everywhere inside and outside the cathedral, although some of them have lost their noses and their feet to the "Roundhead" army of Cromwell centuries ago. In fact, there are many spots in easily accessible places where you see a base that must once have held a statue. Those were obviously toppled by the Puritan troops, but most of the medieval sculpture was too high for them to reach. A huge, heavily worn marble staircase leads to the Chapter House – a circular tower where the business of the cathedral was conducted. We enjoyed our visit, and considered remaining to hear the Norwegian Men’s Choir that was scheduled to give a concert at 1:00, but hunger won out. We went out for lunch instead.

Back to Wells
Intrepid Traveler
 
Amazon.com
Photo of cover of book,