To get to
Herculaneum and
Pompeii (
locator and click on Vesuvio) from
Rome, you first travel 142 miles southeast to
Naples. Herculaneum
is only 6.5 miles southeast of Naples, and Pompeii is 14 miles southeast of Herculaneum. If you climb up to the nearby
Mt. Vesuvius volcano crater you can see all of Naples and its bay. And, if you know where to look, and if it is a clear
day, you are sure to see both Pompeii and Herculaneum. The crater is at the point of a pretty small triangle, with Herculaneum
just southwest of it and Pompeii a little farther southwest. You can see the layout in this
satellite image taken from the Google
Earth web site. The Bay of Naples is the dark area in the lower left corner. Naples spreads out of the image above
and left of Herculaneum.
Both Herculaneum and Pompeii were buried by volcanic ash and mud by an eruption of Mt. Vesuvius on the
24th and 25th of August, 79 AD. Pompeii was largely burned by the hot ash, while Herculaneum was covered in mud. Consequently,
Herculaneum is better preserved. The top floors of Pompeii's houses were destroyed by the fires, but Herculaneum's top
floors were not. And the mud preserved more things inside the buildings in Herculaneum, for example, the sliding doors and hemp
rope you can see in the
photos pages.
We stayed in a campground just across the street from an entrance to the ruins of Pompeii.
We took a train to visit Herculaneum. When we arrived at the train station in Herculaneum, there were white vans in front with
guides offering to take us to the Mt. Vesuvius crater for a fee. We don't remember exactly how much, but it was affordable.
We exchanged glances and said, "Let's do it!" Others who got off the train also had the same reaction, and off we went.
The
promise of taking us to the crater was a bit exaggerated. In fact, the vans took us past vast areas of lava and large cinder
blocks, to an area beyond which cars could not go. This area had the ticket office and a gift shop, and it turned
out to be way below the crater. Looking up you could see at least two switchback trails leading upwards. We could not know that
there were several other and much longer switchbacks going up beyond the ones we could see. A map that was off to the side,
above where the tickets were on sale, shows the climb, from 1010 meters at the ticket office to 1170 meters at the crater--about
500 vertical feet stretched over what seemed like a path at least a mile long. (We include a photo of that map.) It took the
two of us forever, with many stops to rest along the way--standing up, no benches--but we made it. Finally we looked down into
the vast, blackened crater at the summit, took photos, and started down again. (We include a photo of us at the summit,
just to prove we made it.) The truth be told, we did not see much of interest in the crater itself. The views from there of
Naples Bay were of considerably more interest. If this volcano erupts again with the force of the 79 AD eruption, more than
a million people will be in great danger of losing their lives. Take a look at that Google satellite image, and one of the photos
of the vista from the summit, and we think that you will agree with this assessment.
Take a look at the
photos of the climb and
the crater, read our
letter, and then go on to Pompeii, and Herculaneum.